Haruka and I met in Kyoto train station. I’d been alone for a little over a week traveling in Tokyo and Tsumago. Having a companion was a relief, a Japanese one even better. No more language barrier, no more silence. The silence of traveling alone in a country with a significant language barrier took me by surprise. I’m an avid traveller, generally preferring to go it alone, but usually I can either get by in the language or I encounter a few denizens of whatever country I’m in that can get by in English. In Tokyo, I didn’t encounter that and in Tsumago even less. It was a solitude of a different variety. I’d text my then boyfriend and now husband every little thing I saw, photos & thoughts. Due to ravenous love sickness, that didn’t stop when Haruka joined me. I was as irritating as they come, I’m sure, but she graciously tolerated my incessant boy talk as we explored the country together. Our first two stops were a little machiya in Kyoto & a temple stay on Mount Koya. Following is my photo journal & a portrait session I did with Haruka in the temple, perhaps my favorite session to date.
My time in Kyoto was a blur. We arrived at the machiya, ducked through the little door, and climbed the stairway (which was more like a ladder) to our sleeping quarters. Downstairs there was a record player complete with Japanese vinyl from the 60’s in the sitting room and a little kitchen where we made our tea. We spent our evening sitting around the low table over cups of hojicha (a roasted green tea), me forever going on about the man I love and her encouraging me in my madness as good friends do. Later in the evening I ventured out for food while she, still jet lagged, stayed in. I think I ended up in what I can only assume was the red light district of Kyoto. And of course I saw fit to walk into a little closet of a yakitori restaurant. There were probably less than ten seats, all around a little bar, in the whole place. The food was amazing; everything I hoped it would be. The other patrons had sake sloshing out of cedar box cups, and I had two servings of the grilled intestine. That proved to be poor judgement. They were probably better off with their sake.
That night I was wracked with food poisoning, unable to even keep water down. I laid in bed, pallid and sweating. Haruka nursed me, and Matt face timed with me when I was conscious enough to speak. That was, essentially, my entire Kyoto experience. A beautiful machiya, some great shopping (there’s a knife shop that I fell in love with), yakitori, and illness. I’m looking forward to going back for a do-over in April. We’ll be holding another retreat in Kurokawa, and I’ll be stopping in Kyoto beforehand. If you’re interested in our photography retreat at a traditional onsen, you can sign up for the retreat mailing list here. It’s an other-wordly experience (that I’ll actually be posting about soon!!)
I was starting to feel better as we made our way, our lives for the next few weeks on our backs, to Mount Koya ((高野山, Kōyasan) by a train that weaves through the forests and mist, little villages & stick straight cedars flying by. Kōyasan is a secluded temple town in the mountains, and we were greeted by poetic, slow snowflakes as we we made our way from the cable car to the temple we lodged in for the night. That evening Haruka and I shared a traditional vegetarian monk’s meal, shojin ryori, beneath a heated table, and upon waking at dawn we went to the morning prayers followed by a meditation session with one of the resident monks. The calm of Shintoism permeated the entire village, and that day we hiked to shrines and through the massive graveyard to the main temple, and then onward to the next leg of our journey: to Kurokawa to host our photography retreat. Which is coming up in the next installment of this Japan travel series!
Highlights of this leg of the journey:
1. Haruka Sakaguchi, photographer & most excellent friend
3. A temple stay in Mount Koya
5. A huge bowl of udon when we were both very tired & maybe a little stressed
…… 
Incredible and I’m so sorry you had food poisoning. One of my friends here in London does many temple stays when she goes back to Japan to visit family. She makes some quintessential temple food and it is so warm and nourishing. Thank you for sharing! x
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Thank you for sharing these peaceful and serene pictures !
Beautiful pictures!, Thanks for sharing. 😉
You make everything look zen in your photographs but this is amazing! ♥nic
P.S.: Love those kitties.
Your photos are absolutely exquisite and remind me of my own stay on Koyasan. It’s such a tranquil and peaceful place, and your beautiful photos have captured this perfectly.
Tessa at Bramble & Thorn
These images are stunning, they really capture what my imagination sees as being Japan…
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Spectacular photography! Your eye for artistry is incredible!
My, what absolutely stunning pictures. I feel these are the most outstanding, simple and beautiful pictures I’ve seen in a blog post!
Thank you.
Japan has been on my bucket list for the longest time, and your photos make me wanna pack my bag and leave right now 🙂 the silent music of the lighting is breath taking
Thanks so much for sharing once again. Always a treat to read and see your posts. Love them all
XxHoney
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Oh these photos took my breath away!
Every photo Nik! You’re amazing!
Gorgeous photos. I spent quite a bit of time in Japan during college. These bring back grat memories. Thank you so much.
These photos are seriously incredible….
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Stunning photos! Japan is such a beautiful place and you have captured the serenity beautifully
I’m in awe of these photos, especially the ones having tea….such beautiful shadows, girl. And how sweet of Haruka for taking care of you during food poisoning! That alone feels like there’s such a strong bond going on.
Love the way you captured the light and shadow and how serene these pictures look.
Kyoto is the most incredible place. I absolutely feel peaceful and calm when I’m there. Your photos are GORGEOUS.
oh how i loved these images! going to Japan is one of my life’s great wishes. thank you for this post 🙂
Your photos are always so rich with color and life. In complete awe…
magical
What beautiful pictures and journey, thanks for sharing!
Love your calm, beautiful pictures. What a treat for my eyes! Thank you…
Franzi
Les photos sont justes magnifiques et très authentique ! J’adore le style 🙂
Beautiful journey (just read through the three parts). I have a hope to go to Japan someday for myself, especially to visit Hiroyuki Shindo’s Little Indigo Museum. I love this adorable illustration of the museum: http://shindo-shindigo.com/museum/
Guess WHAT, Beth?
I’ve just finished reading the whole thing, your blog.
Being an avid follower of yours for years, I had resolved to read your blog from its beginnings, and it took me almost a year! (life got busy, as it does tend to do.)
Anyway, so ecstatically happy for you and your husband, and the new endeavors in GA (I lived there back in 2012, and frequently return to visit my BFF – excited to stop by the new shop!). My Pinterest board is bursting with your recipes, and my photography game feels oh so much stronger 😉
Thanks for always being an inspiration.
Looking forward to reading in real time now!
A
Such a beautiful japanese promenade. I love the gentle colors and the peaceful atmosphere of your photos.
I think your photos are really beautiful – incredible style.
I have wondered how one can tell if a talent is gained through education and practice, or if that talent is God-Given. Now I know…thank you for touching our hearts with pictures.
Wow beautiful photos! Just amazing. Thank you for make me realising how beautiful my home country is! Shame myself, I am from the same prefecture where Koyasan is and I have never visited there….. shame. Next time I go back to Japan, definitely visit Koyasan and wish I can take beautiful photos like you do.
OMG, I even commented just looking at the beautiful photos and then read the article!! I am so sign up your retreat in Japan!
I am blown away by these photos. Which camera do you use??
My brother lived in Japan for 13 years and got married their. I love your pictures
they are so peaceful.
beautiful images. i am heading to koyasan myself in a few months, and this is a lovely taste of what i have in store. would you mind telling me what temple you stayed at?
I’m leaving in June to Japan and heading to Koyasan, and i would love to know what temple you stayed at.
I can’t remember the name…my friend booked it! I’m so sorry! I know it’s a very highly rated one that needs to be booked early!
is it possible to recall the temple you stayed at here? it looks magical!
You have an amazing eye – your photo’s transport me right back to Koyasan.
I am so excited I will be visiting again early November. With cool days, long
walks and the magic and mystery of the mountain. Next year I continue on
Shikoku 88 temple trail. Koyasan always grounds me. I am happy I found
your website. Your creativity is inspiring.
Hey Beth! My husband and I are heading to Japan soon! I’ve loved your city guides and have been using them as a nice outline for our trip! Where did you stay in Kyoto and which temple inn did you stay at on Mt Koya? We are booking accommodations and I’d love suggestions!
I can’t remember the one in Mt. Koya! And in Kyoto we stayed at the inn mentioned in my Kyoto City Guide! We also rent airbnbs. There are lovely machiyas for rent here: http://www.kyoto-machiya-inn.com/ also!