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local milk is a journal devoted to home cookery, travel, family, and slow living—to being present & finding sustenance of every kind. It’s about nesting abroad & finding the exotic in the everyday. Most of all it’s about the perfection of imperfections and seeing the beauty of everyday, mundane life.

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wander | japan pt. 2 : kiso valley

Japan

07.22.2015

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley, tsumago

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

I have a tenuous relationship with time. I’m always looking to be lost in it, to fight it, to move freely in it. To push and pull. Save it. Erase it. Who knows what’s equitable to ask of time. It never answers my letters. It just goes on. And so I travel looking for lost bits, hoping to know what it’s like to be more than a temporal being. Ancient Japan does, for a moment, make you feel outside of time. Not quite immortal. These photos were taken in and around the Kiso Valley, specifically in Tsumago and Magome. I stayed at the Fujioto Ryokan, a beautiful inn with exceptional food. I highly recommend it. I hiked the trail between the two towns, which I also highly recommend.

I, as most of us do now, thoughtlessly use my camera to tuck the detritus of my days into my pockets. I also do photography, but I consider those two different things. The former I find pointless and rather wish I didn’t do it. A photo isn’t a memory any more than the scraps of paper and mundane talismans I keep in a little drawer in my dresser are. At best they are short hand notes, jotted down and crumpled in a pocket, maybe looked at later, maybe not.

Something far more inscrutable determines that which we remember and that which we do not. Even a photograph can become meaningless over time. Where was that? Who are those people? Why some things bob happily on the surface of our memories, form bright electric paths that spark blue through our brains, and why others sink down into the silt, forgotten, a neurological black out, I’ll never know.

These photos are artifacts I was able to create by traveling, but they are not my memories. My memories are simple. Heart sickness for my love. Overwhelming wonder at the fact that things really can be as beautiful as you always imagined. Trying to suspend reality, trying to make believe that mystical creatures and spirits inhabited the forest. Wanting someone else’s eyes to see all that I was seeing. Never wanting to leave. All I dream of is being back in the Japanese countryside, but next time with my husband. If he was there with me, it may as well be home. If you ever can, do go.

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | tsumago

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

wander | japan : kiso valley

Y75A0427.jpg

wander | japan : kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

japan | kiso valley

Y75A0114.jpg

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tags: fujioto inn, guide, hike, japan, kiso valley, magome, ryokan, trail, travel, tsumago, wander

39 thoughts on “wander | japan pt. 2 : kiso valley”

  1. Ksenia @ At the Immigrant's Table says:
    July 22, 2015 at 8:58 pm

    Stunning moments that capture an emotion, a life, a story. Great work – even without the words.

    Reply
    1. Laura ~ Raise Your Garden says:
      July 23, 2015 at 9:19 pm

      Oh so lovely. So I’ll take your advice, if I ever get the chance, I will go! I’m not too optimistic, but you never know =) Maybe someday funds and time will allow. Until then, I live vicariously through you. Many thanks.

      Reply
  2. Shivani says:
    July 22, 2015 at 9:14 pm

    The “blah blah blah” is definitely my favorite 🙂 Thanks for the snapshot into your process, however unintended! I love the photography/memory distinction. Congratulations again on your wedding and marriage — wishing you and Matt years of giddy happiness.

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      July 23, 2015 at 12:05 am

      Ohhhh man. lmfao I’m so glad you said that! I always put in text filler to break up the photos at first and…yeah. Obvi forgot to take it out. I’m just glad I didn’t say anything super weird in them! Ahahahah

      Reply
      1. Shivani says:
        July 23, 2015 at 8:50 am

        😉 got your back, ladyfriend!

        Reply
  3. Lina says:
    July 22, 2015 at 10:53 pm

    I can’t believe these photos. Talk about stunning.

    Reply
  4. Joanna says:
    July 22, 2015 at 11:24 pm

    i woke up at 5 am. I read your words, admired the pictures. Time. I cannot sleep now.

    http://Www.allnnothing.com

    Reply
  5. Dee says:
    July 22, 2015 at 11:34 pm

    I’m convinced, for some reason, that these places are just as beautiful in reality as they are in these photos.

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      July 23, 2015 at 12:06 am

      I usually would not say this…but in this case I swear it is. Maybe even more beautiful.

      Reply
  6. Patricia says:
    July 23, 2015 at 3:00 am

    My soul is longing to be there and see it with the eyes of mine. Love the stories your pictures are telling.

    Reply
  7. charlotte´s frame says:
    July 23, 2015 at 3:54 am

    Stunning shots!

    Reply
  8. Nora says:
    July 23, 2015 at 7:31 am

    Beautifully written and photographed. I want to be there.

    Reply
  9. Vickie says:
    July 23, 2015 at 8:01 am

    magical

    Reply
  10. Adrienne says:
    July 23, 2015 at 8:17 am

    Your depiction of time is so eloquently revealed as everything i love and fear. I’m so grateful and therefor vulnerable to time, and it’s nice to feel not so alone in that sentiment. Thank you for such stunning and memorable photos that allow us to almost feel the living air around each subject.

    Reply
  11. Miranda says:
    July 23, 2015 at 9:07 am

    Contrary to you, my photos are pretty much my memories. I don’t do photography – neither as an art form nor professionally – and don’t take as much photos as I wish I did. Because to me, photos are truly linked with my personal memories, even photos I did not take. I look at certain photos in my home and I immediately remember the moment that was taken, and what happened that day, or on that trip, or during that month… I look at photos of, say, my grandparents, their parents, and I remember the first tme I was shown those pictures, and the stories I was told about the people in those photographs, my kith and kin, my heritage, my inheritance, my blood. And I see myself in them and I see my son in my grandfather’s christening photographs, though there was about a century between both births – wow, this is really weird, my grandad being born in 1908 and my son in 2008, and one reminding me of the other so so much, it just gave me deep chills and goosebumps! To me, photos are triggers for my memories, and so I treasure them so much, I believe that the first thing I would salvage if my house was on fire would be my external disk where all the photos are stored!!!
    http://bloglairdutemps.blogspot.pt/

    Reply
  12. Heather says:
    July 23, 2015 at 11:14 am

    Wow, these photos are just over the top gorgeous. Thank you for rocking my world this morning… I have wanted to visit Japan for decades, but this really put it to the top of my bucket list. Thanks for sharing your beautiful life with us.

    Reply
  13. Elizabeth says:
    July 23, 2015 at 11:29 am

    Hello from Japan, actually! I’m in Kanazawa for the next few days, which I think you might love, since it’s known for its food… And as you well know anything in Japan that has a reputation has earned it, earnestly and over time. Kanazawa is no different!

    Thank you for the Tokyo Guide, by the way. Did you make it to the kitchenware street near asakusa? I always wondered where people got that fake plastic display food for their restaurants. Now I know… There’s a whole street devoted to it. Its gorgeous.

    Reply
  14. penny says:
    July 23, 2015 at 11:35 am

    You’ve cast a spell with this. A beautiful one. Thank you.

    Reply
  15. Ta says:
    July 23, 2015 at 11:52 am

    These villages just radiate with age. In a sea of deep earth tones, I really appreciated the bright color bursts of the yellow flowers and purple headed cabbage. Beautiful post.

    Reply
  16. Cynthia Whitney-Ward says:
    July 23, 2015 at 12:16 pm

    I’m there…or at least I feel that way when I breathe in your luscious photographs. Thank you for sharing them…

    Reply
  17. Anne-Marie says:
    July 23, 2015 at 1:01 pm

    I love how this post overwhelmingly shows how distracting real love can be

    Reply
  18. Hannah says:
    July 23, 2015 at 1:49 pm

    This is a beautiful post. Do you speak Japanese – or did anyone in that region speak English? I’m going in November and am just a bit worried about the language barrier if I don’t speak Japanese. Let me know what you found.

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      July 23, 2015 at 11:16 pm

      The owner of the inn, he speaks very good English due to having lived in Italy for some time. But while people speak a minimal bit, it’s unusual to find someone fluent. But as long as I could say “please” “thank you” and the name of where I was going in Japanese…I relied heavily on charades style hand gestures : ) It’s no problem…just a different way of communicating.

      Reply
  19. Abby says:
    July 23, 2015 at 2:53 pm

    These photographs are stunning, Beth, and your writing is utterly incredible, as always. <3

    Reply
  20. Carey Reynolds says:
    July 23, 2015 at 9:57 pm

    May I ask what kind of camera do you use for your images?
    Thanks!
    C

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      July 23, 2015 at 11:17 pm

      a canon 5d mark III

      Reply
  21. velveteencockroach says:
    July 24, 2015 at 3:35 am

    You have captured the mood and tranquility of Japan perfectly. I’m in love and I really want to visit this place. Out of all your pictures, I’ve noticed a wall full of Japanese wards on them. May I ask the story behind that wall?

    Reply
  22. Nadya says:
    July 24, 2015 at 11:18 am

    I’ve never wanted to go to Japan, but now I feel like it should be my mission. Beautiful words and photos. Thank you for inspiration!

    Reply
  23. Danielle says:
    July 24, 2015 at 12:01 pm

    Your photography is stunning. Love your blog!

    Danielle

    http://www.blushblossom.com

    Reply
  24. Jude says:
    July 24, 2015 at 5:22 pm

    Your narrative and pictures reminded me of one of my favorite quotes from Hunter S. Thompsons’ book: Fear and Loathing in Los Vegas, “Maybe it meant something. Maybe not, in the long run, but no explanation, no mix of words or music or memories can touch that sense of knowing that you were there and alive in that corner of time and the world. Whatever it meant.”

    Best wishes for you and your beloved for an extraordinary marriage. You know it’s just going to be.

    Reply
  25. Albert says:
    July 25, 2015 at 12:33 pm

    Wonderful tone! Always love your brilliant photos 🙂

    Best, Albert | Palming Pebbles
    Palming Pebbles FB Page

    Reply
  26. Rose says:
    July 25, 2015 at 6:12 pm

    Just stunning. Amazing pics for an amazing place.

    Reply
  27. Enrica says:
    July 27, 2015 at 3:01 am

    Assolutamente incantata e rapita delle immagini e dalle parole… grazie.

    Reply
  28. Chantelle says:
    July 27, 2015 at 2:27 pm

    Wow, stunning and surreal, the way you captured the kiso valley is magic. I want to go there so bad. Lovesick in Japan sounds utterly romantic and fitted, but I hope someday you get to go there with your man. I adore reading your eloquent words on falling in love heavy and hard. What a dream.

    Reply
  29. Clara says:
    July 31, 2015 at 11:46 am

    These are the best photos I’ve ever seen on Japan! So inspiring…

    Reply
  30. lizzy says:
    August 19, 2015 at 9:23 am

    the only word i can find that describes your photos and post is STUNNING

    Reply
  31. Agnes says:
    October 19, 2016 at 12:10 am

    “Forever is composed of Nows.” Emily Dickinson said that and I think the words really capture the tone of your writing and photography. I love that you make an art out of everything you do. You somehow balance the eloquence with information, if I am half the writer you are someday I will be content. I especially loved this piece on Japan. As someone who desperately wants to go, I loved seeing a window into the tranquillity of the countryside rather than the craziness of the city. Thanks!

    Reply
  32. Anna says:
    January 5, 2017 at 6:33 pm

    Stumbled across this post and I must say your photos are absolutely stunning. My boyfriend’s mother lives in Kiso Valley and we visited this past Autumn (I met her for the first time). She took us to Tsumago & Magome. I walked those streets, ate the Miso Kiritanpo from the sweet little lady in the window, and literally gasped at the incredible mountain views. The whole experience was incredibly surreal and I long for it every single day. We have finally settled on our next visit and looking forward to exploring Kiso Valley and Kyoto (will definitely be using your guides, thank you!!!) in early December 2017.

    Reply
  33. Ella says:
    February 13, 2017 at 6:21 am

    Oh Beth I just loved the way you described your relationship with time! It resonated with me so much. I lived in Japan for several years and always savoured the moments spent in the remote towns and small villages outside of the big fast cities… Kiso is now on my next must-do when in Japan, thanks for sharing such exquisite pics and thoughts!

    Reply

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