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local milk is a journal devoted to home cookery, travel, family, and slow living—to being present & finding sustenance of every kind. It’s about nesting abroad & finding the exotic in the everyday. Most of all it’s about the perfection of imperfections and seeing the beauty of everyday, mundane life.

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Insta-Milk

Buttermilk Brined Fried Chicken

Cook

06.18.2012

Buttermilk Brined Southern Fried Chicken
Buttermilk Brined Southern Fried Chicken
Hoe Hop Valley Farm’s Chicken brined & battered in Cruze Farm’s buttermilk



In the south, fried chicken is like religion, and like religion everyone believes that their way is The One True Way. When Patrick requested it for his birthday I felt a twinge of terror. I’d never fried chicken before. I’d never deep fried anything before. So I did research, a lot of research. I read about fried chicken for days. And it seems I’m no different than everyone else because I have emerged from my chicken meditations, and I’m here to tell you that I have found the One True Fried Chicken. May it keep us always.


Speaking of chicken and religion, when my mother called to ask how the party went, she told me she actually prayed for my fried chicken to turn out well. Well, evidently the God of Chicken & Biscuits (a very prominent deity in this part of the country) heard her, because this is momma slappin’ chicken. That is to say it’s chicken that “tastes so good, it makes you wanna slap yo momma”. I give you Urban Dictionary’s break down for your edification:

1. Tastes so good, it makes you wanna slap yo momma 

When you try some new food that tastes so delicious it makes you wonder “why can’t my mom cook this well?”. This thought makes you so angry that you feel like slapping your mom for feeding you mediocre food…

Kid 1: Yo dawg, I’m tired of eatin’ at home. My momma feeds me the same ol’ grilled cheese sandwich for lunch every-damn-day. 
Kid 2: Don’t sweat it home slice. Why don’t you come on over to ma crib after school? I’ll make you to best PB & J sandwich you’ve eva tasted. Tastes so good, make you wanna slap yo momma! 
Kid 1: Yeaaah boii!! 

Uh-huh. That good. The thing is, I thought I could never achieve my ideal fried chicken, and I’ve had a very particular ideal for a long time: Lamar’s fried chicken. Lamar’s Bar & Restaurant, with a seedy pay by the hour motel in the back, is Chattanooga’s (perhaps self-proclaimed) “favorite place after dark” and a veritable temple of soul. You enter Lamar’s up a flight of stairs beneath a striped awning, walk through the front room with its (usually unoccupied) booths down a darkened hallway lit by the green glow of a 50 gallon fish tank and into the “Chrystal Lounge”. You’ll usually find Gerald behind the bar in a tux, mixing drinks and polishing glasses. Curt, efficient, and skilled, he mixes the best (and stiffest) drinks in town. The lounge is dimly lit by flickering candles & colored Christmas lights and is shrouded in velvet wallpaper. The purist jukebox in the corner contains nothing but jazz, blues, soul, and R&B. This is a place that exists outside of space-time, untouched by the cheap, aseptic commercialization that has mostly wiped out the fine tradition of the dive bar. And when you go, there is no point in ordering anything other than the fried chicken which is served up late into the night.

Always piping hot, succulent, and intensely flavorful (the meat as well as the breading), theirs is the only fried chicken in the world I’ve ever really cared for. I can honestly say I’ve never had fried chicken that was as juicy, tender, and well seasoned. And I lived a block from the famous Dunbar’s in New Orleans. And I’ve had fried chicken at Ad Hoc. Don’t get me wrong Dunbar’s was fantastic, and Ad Hoc’s fried chicken was delicious. The evening I ate at Ad Hoc I even saw the man himself, Chef Thomas Keller, walk through the dining room in a Giant’s baseball cap. I felt like a teenage girl in the 70’s catching a glimpse of David Cassidy. But still, neither experience lived up to Lamar’s. Maybe, I worried, Lamar’s fried chicken can’t exist outside the Chrystal Lounge. Maybe jazz, velvet wall paper, Christmas lights, and life ruining white Russians are essential ingredients in their fried chicken. Maybe you have to be young, drunk, and in the dark for fried chicken to taste that good. And if Dunbar’s & Keller couldn’t satisfy me, how could I ever hope to?

Buttermilk Brined Southern Fried Chicken

Yeaaah boii!!

Well it turns out, thank the God of Chicken & Biscuits, that I could. I’m not claiming this is a replica of their chicken, only that I like it just as much. I knew for sure I was going to brine my chicken. But I also knew I wanted the chicken to sit in a “buttermilk bath”. So why not just create a buttermilk brine, I wondered? Most recipes I read used one or the other. Well, at first I feared that the dual action of the acid, enzymes, and calcium in the buttermilk along with the tenderizing effects of salt penetrating the meat via osmosis would render my meat mushy. So I kept reading.

It seemed that, while less common than you would think, people do brine their chicken in buttermilk and it doesn’t make it mushy. So, I was set. I consulted Keller’s recipe and created a brine using his approximate ratios for liquid, salt, and honey with my own flavorings, and after reading his recipe along with countless others I decided I would also “dredge, dip, dredge” in flour and buttermilk prior to deep frying at around 325° F in an enameled cast iron dutch oven. I’d also read that baking powder and cornstarch in your dredging flour led to an extra crispy coating, and that nutmeg was cited as a “secret ingredient”. I love nutmeg, so I was sold on that idea, and I decided to use unbleached all-purpose flour plus a teaspoon of baking powder and a tablespoon of cornstarch per cup as my dredging base. Lastly, I’d read in The Pioneer Woman’s recipe and in others that mixing the final dredging flour with a bit of buttermilk till “shaggy” led to a nice coating on the chicken.  I found this naturally occurred in the second dredging dish as I dredge, dipped in buttermilk, and dredged again. I think when doing so much chicken (I did a double recipe) it would have gotten too clumpy if I’d added buttermilk beforehand. I might add a tablespoon or two if I were doing less.

Because I was cooking a double recipe for a group and also due to the fact that I had rather large chickens that I’d gotten from Hoe Hop Valley Farm at the Main Street market, I knew I wanted to hold and/or finish my chicken in the oven. I was worried this would result in a soggy exterior. It did not. I will say that detail is not my ideal. Ideally the chicken would be cooked through in the oil, rest on a rack over paper towels for about ten minutes and be served immediately thereafter. But on this point I had to compromise. Michael Ruhlman said it was okay, so obviously it’s okay. The Pioneer Woman, Ree, also says it’s okay. The benefit of finishing in the oven is that you can pull your chicken out of the oil at its golden peak and then finish it without having to worry about overcooking the exterior or undercooking the interior. Also, there’s the obvious benefit of being able to serve it when you want and keep 16 pieces of fried chicken hot. So, conceptually I had in my head the blueprints for perfect buttermilk brined fried chicken for a crowd. But as you know, cooking is something learned by doing and all the reading in the world can’t guarantee a successful result. You just have to do it and use your intuition & five senses along the way.

When I wrote about my first layer cake experiment, I mentioned that I, up until this year, had a pension for celebrating birthdays with “death knells and banshee wails” not things like cake baking & dinner parties. That wasn’t to imply that birthdays bothered me, that aging was some terrible fate that I lamented. I was feeling far too youthfully immortal to concern myself with the inevitable march of time. Instead it was to say that my particular brand of celebration was a brutally wild sort. Now things are different, more civilized. It’s a novel, calm reality that has settled on me softly this past year like waking up in your own bed after a terrifying dream. In contrast to years past, we celebrated his 26th with a small dinner party of his closest friends replete with tea lights in mason jars, tiny vases of Crayola colored flowers, and a large pitcher of hibiscus honey iced tea. As per his request I made buttermilk biscuits, potlikker kale, and a salad of vine ripened local tomatoes with Bonnie Blue herbed goat cheese, basil from my porch garden, and fleur de sel. For dessert he requested bittersweet spicy chocolate soufflé (better and far easier than cake for me!) with homemade Lapsang Souchong ice cream. And, of course, there was buttermilk fried chicken.

mason jar tea lights & flowers centerpiece

tin of dream buttermilk biscuits

all natural buttermilk “dream biscuits” in my grandmother’s biscuit cloth

vine ripened tomatoes from the Thursday market on Signal Mountain with Bonnie Blue herbed goat cheese & fresh basil

mason jar candles tea lights table setting

His birthday gift (other than fried chicken!): 3 chocolate bars and a vintage Oxford English Dictionary (not pictured) with it’s original magnifying glass
 
 
Buttermilk Brined Southern Fried Chicken

Buttermilk Brined Southern Fried Chicken

serves 4-6

Ingredients

8 pieces of chicken (I cut up whole chickens from Hoe Hop Valley farm, and used the breasts, legs, and thighs. I also cut the breasts in half horizontally because they were large)

Brine

1 quart buttermilk (I used Cruze Farm’s, if you can get it, I recommend it)

1 cup water
1/8 cup kosher salt
1 Tbsp Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning
1 Tbsp Frank’s Hot Sauce (or other vinegar based hot sauce)
1 Tbsp Sriracha hot sauce
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 cup honey
cayenne or hot Hungarian paprika to taste (optional)
a few sprigs of thyme (optional)

Coating

3 cups flour
3 tsp baking powder
3 Tbsp cornstarch
1 tsp Tony Chachere’s
1-2 tsp kosher salt (to taste)
1/2 tsp freshly grated black pepper
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp cayenne
1/4 tsp paprika
2 tsp garlic powder
2 cups buttermilk
oil for frying (you need enough to come about 1/3 of the way up the pot or 2 inches)
{note: I have used both vegetable and canola oil successfully}
kosher salt for sprinkling

Directions

For the brine: Combine all the ingredients for the brine except buttermilk in a small pot and heat over medium, dissolving all the salt and honey. Remove from heat and cool by adding ice cubes and stirring. In a large mixing bowl combine buttermilk and cooled seasoned water. Rinse chicken and pat dry. Divide all pieces of chicken between two large ziplock bags. Pour half of buttermilk brine in each, close, and place in the refrigerator over night, up to 12 hours. I have left them in there longer, 14-15 hours, with no ill effects. {note: I have also halved the brine recipe and used one large ziplock for 8 pieces of chicken and it worked out well, a good way to save.}
1-2 hours before you are ready to fry: Rinse the chicken under cold water and pat dry. Let the chicken come to room temperature, half an hour to one and a half hours, on a parchment lined baking sheet covered with paper towels.
Preheat oven to 350°.
Mix all of the ingredients for the coating together in a large bowl, transferring half to a second bowl. {note: The measurements given for seasonings here are approximate. I season my flour to taste. Yes, I taste the raw flour. It should taste salty & flavorful.} Fill a third bowl with the 2 cups of buttermilk. The easiest way to coat the chicken is to have a line set up: uncoated chicken, flour coating, buttermilk, 2nd bowl of flour coating, wax paper lined baking sheet for the coated chicken.
Pour the oil into your pot (preferably cast iron enamel like Le Crueset). It should come at least two inches and no more than 1/3 of the way up the side of the pot. Turn the heat to low, clipping a frying/candy thermometer to the side of your pot.
Dredge each piece in the coating, dust off all excess, dip into the buttermilk, and then into the second bowl of coating, letting the 2nd coating be clumpier but still patting to get rid of excess that might fall off in the oil. Place coated chicken on the wax paper lined tray.
Turn the oil up to high and let it come to about 350° F. Let the coated chicken sit so that the coating will thicken while the oil gets hot. When it reaches temperature, very carefully place 4 pieces of chicken at a time in the hot oil and fry, adjusting the temperature as needed to maintain a frying temperature between 310° -325° F. I try to keep it around 320°. You start the oil at 350° because when you add the chicken to the hot oil, the temperature will drop. Fry dark meat first, as it takes longer. Fry the chicken for about 13-20 minutes, moving the chicken gently (you don’t want to knock the coating off!) after the first five to prevent sticking and burning on the bottom. Be careful to monitor your chicken, watching the oil temperature closely and not letting the chicken get too dark.
Remove chicken from the oil with a spider or slotted metal spoon when it is golden brown (metal tongs will knock off your precious coating), and place it on a cooling rack over a paper towel lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with kosher salt. Check the internal temperature with an instant read thermometer. Fully cooked chicken will read 160 degrees and can be served then if desired. If it is lower than that, it must be finished in the oven. Fry the second batch and then place it on the rack. Place the rack in the oven for ten minutes. Check the internal temperature to make sure the chicken is cooked through, let rest 10 minutes, and serve hot. If all the chicken is cooked through and you want to keep it hot, you can hold it in a 250 degree oven.
Serving suggestions: hot sauce, honey, jams, biscuits, and waffles are all great friends of fried chicken! Slow cooked greens, green beans, and mashed potatoes all make great sides.
The buttermilk “Dream Biscuit” recipe can be found here, where they are called “All Natural Sky High Biscuit Adaptation, a.k.a. Darth Vader Biscuits”. They are called such because I believe I’m the Darth Vader to the Biscuits Lady’s (of the Big Biscuit Barn in Ft. Oglethorpe, GA) Obi Wan Kenobi. Now, I am the master. My mom prefers to call them dream biscuits because they remind her of her mother’s. You can call them what you like, but they’re some of the best biscuits you’ll ever make.

As for the recipes for the potlikker greens, spicy chocolate soufflés, and ice cream…. they will be posted in the future!

milk bottle bouquet

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tags: birthday, biscuits, buttermilk, buttermilk brine, centerpiece, chicken, cooking, cuisine, deep fried, dinner party, fried, fried chicken, party, picnic, soul food, southern, spicy, summer

41 thoughts on “Buttermilk Brined Fried Chicken”

  1. savorysimple.net says:
    June 18, 2012 at 9:37 pm

    I would love to get my hands on this! It looks fantastic.

    Reply
  2. MyFudo™ says:
    June 19, 2012 at 10:03 am

    Every household loves fried chicken…The pictures kept me craving. Yum!

    Reply
  3. Torviewtoronto says:
    June 19, 2012 at 9:31 pm

    beautiful pictures and delicious chicken

    Reply
  4. Jennifer Ochoa says:
    June 19, 2012 at 10:01 pm

    Great looking recipe and what a cool birthday gift!

    Reply
  5. jen says:
    June 21, 2012 at 5:26 pm

    found your blog googling around for lapsang souchong ice cream ideas. your photography is beautiful and this sounds like a dream meal at a dream party–also, what a perf birthday gift. happy to have found you!

    Reply
  6. Helen says:
    July 3, 2012 at 3:43 pm

    This looks fantastic. I started the chicken brining tonight for the picnic tomorrow!

    Reply
    1. Helen says:
      July 5, 2012 at 10:26 am

      Reporting back in, you have made me a hero. Everyone says this is, without question or exaggeration, the best fried chicken they have ever had. I eventually printed out a sheet with the URL for this page printed on it 20 times, hopefully you’ll get lots of traffic from it. There weren’t any strips (or chicken!) left at the end of the day.

      I live pretty much on the Mason Dixon line, and people from both sides thought this was slap-yo-momma good. Thank you so much for figuring it all out and sharing the recipe!

      Reply
    2. Local Milk says:
      July 6, 2012 at 12:52 am

      That is excellent to hear!! Really, I cannot tell you how much that excites me. It’s one thing to have a recipe work for you but real success is knowing it works for other people! And that all my “fried chicken research” stands justified. Again, so glad you liked it… it’s a crowd pleaser!

      Reply
  7. blaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh says:
    July 18, 2012 at 12:24 am

    Hi, I live in New Zealand and can’t source the following ingredients. Could you please suggest some generic substitutions for them?

    Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning
    Frank’s Hot Sauce (or other vinegar based hot sauce)
    Sriracha hot sauce

    Thank you very much.

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      July 18, 2012 at 12:50 am

      Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning

      Recipe By : Tony Chachere
      Serving Size : 1 Preparation Time :0:00
      Categories :
      Amount Measure Ingredient — Preparation Method
      ——– ———— ——————————–
      26 ounces salt
      1 1/2 ounces black pepper — ground
      2 ounces red pepper — ground
      1 ounce garlic powder — pure
      1 ounce chili powder
      1 ounce Monosodium glutamate — (Accent)

      Reply
    2. Local Milk says:
      July 18, 2012 at 12:54 am

      As to the vinegar based hot sauce, I’m sure there are 100’s of recipes on google for homemade ones. Here’s a NYT recipe: http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/11/18/diy-hot-sauce/

      Sriracha is a chili garlic sauce. Here’s a d.i.y. method: http://www.americastestkitchenfeed.com/do-it-yourself/2011/10/how-to-make-sriracha/

      If you don’t feel like going through the trouble, the chicken will still be good with it omitted.

      Reply
  8. Elaine says:
    August 18, 2012 at 12:47 am

    This. Was. Amazing. My boyfriend and I made it for some friends, and it was generally agreed that this fried chicken kicked some substantial ass; all of your research totally paid off!

    Reply
  9. Ginger says:
    September 6, 2012 at 10:10 pm

    Absolutely divine!

    Reply
  10. Jules says:
    October 29, 2012 at 11:29 pm

    “Butter my biscuits!” Great recipe; even better story to accompany! Can you also tell me what type camera you’re using and any additional equipment (lighting? light umbrella? etc.); photos are beautiful! I do quite a bit of food photography and always somewhat disappointed with depth of field, contrast, color intensity and focus even though using a relatively high end digital camera. Maybe I’m having a basic equipment issue…never had problems with a “real” SLR!
    Thanks!

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      November 7, 2012 at 11:07 pm

      I use an old Canon Rebel XTI DSLR, a hand me down from my dad. I don’t use any additional equipment and only shoot in natural light. Sometimes I use a white foam board or poster board as a reflector, but not in these photos. Do you do post processing on your photos? If not, you might be able to achieve what you’re looking for there.

      Reply
  11. Karen says:
    March 25, 2013 at 2:38 pm

    This facebook page is using your photo and recipe with no credit given to you:( https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=277001929099048&set=a.187968631335712.45028.187938204672088&type=1&theater

    Reply
  12. Natalie Selavy says:
    March 26, 2013 at 6:58 pm

    Your image is being used without giving you credit!!!!!

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=277001929099048&set=pb.187938204672088.-2207520000.1364338347&type=3&theater

    Reply
  13. Keisha says:
    September 3, 2013 at 3:07 am

    You did the same research I did on the brining issue, glad I found your recipe!! I wanted to know how long do you put the chicken in the oven and what temp if the chicken isn’t cooked through? Thanks!

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      September 3, 2013 at 3:13 am

      Put it in the oven at 350° for ten minutes and then check the internal temp again if it isn’t cooked through after frying. Though if the chicken is room temp and your frying oil is kept between 310°-325°F you should be able to cook it through in the oil without it getting too dark on the outside unless they are exceptionally large pieces of chicken.

      Reply
  14. Karen says:
    November 12, 2013 at 4:25 pm

    Can’t wait to try the recipe and love the story. Just a little “tip/fyi”….in the paragraph where you reference birthdays it should be “penchant” not “pension”. No offense intended, I would want someone to tell me so I thought I would say something.

    Reply
  15. Pingback: The Perfect Fried Chicken Recipe
  16. Sammi says:
    August 16, 2014 at 4:50 am

    Plan on getting some chicken from the farmers market today & making this tomorrow. Loved reading your thoughts on fried chicken, especially to the tune provided by Lamar’s Bar & Restaurant’s website…seriously, it’s good.

    Reply
  17. Danielle says:
    December 19, 2014 at 10:34 am

    Wanted to make this for Christmas Eve and being a Yankee I am clueless to the whole fried chicken following. Sadly. So I am trusting your research and skill implicitly. My question is regarding all the heat you give this chicken, we are feeding quite a few young palates (ages 2-9). Does this chicken have a kick and will omitting some of the spices hurt the overall taste?

    Reply
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  19. rebecca Marlowe says:
    May 12, 2015 at 10:59 pm

    I can’t find the recipe for dream biscuits pictured at the bottom. Can you help please?!

    Reply
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  21. drsanmyint says:
    July 8, 2015 at 4:28 am

    So happy to get the chicken fried recipe because I like so much

    Reply
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  26. new chef says:
    October 3, 2015 at 6:51 pm

    Hey the recipe liiks amazing but i have a question: if i want to make a Kosher version what can i replace the buttermilk with??

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      October 4, 2015 at 4:56 pm

      I don’t know much about what is and isn’t kosher, so I can’t tell you. The creamy, tanginess is what you’re after. So maybe something with lemon juice added.

      Reply
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  31. Karla says:
    June 21, 2016 at 4:10 pm

    Could a person who has to be gluten free use rice flour or GF all purpose flour instead of regular flour?

    Reply
  32. Sandy says:
    June 21, 2016 at 11:34 pm

    I’ve been following your blog for a few years now- although not since 2012 (I found this recipe in your archives), and I’m a huge fan. I’ve made several of your recipes with great success, and a lot of praise from my roommates.
    I made this fried chicken for my dad on Father’s Day, after remembering him say he never liked eating any fried chicken besides his mother’s. My grandma unfortunately never wrote down any recipes, and resorted healthier version (probably omitting the Crisco) after a heart attack in the 90s, so the fried chicken he ate as a child has probably been lost forever…I digress. Reading through your distinctly Southern recipe, though, I had a feeling this one might rival my grandma’s. Just like you, I’d never fried chicken, or really anything else, before, so I was quite nervous about how it would turn out. But sure enough, after several pieces of chicken (and some of your sky-high biscuits), my dad comments “you know, I think this chicken is about as good as grandma Alma’s”. 🙂 So much a good cooking and good food is about creating (and recreating) memories. Thank you again for this great recipe!

    Reply
  33. Philip Storvik says:
    March 28, 2017 at 4:12 pm

    Just made this and it was a hit. Thank you. As a side note, I looked up Lamar’s as I’m only a couple hours away in Murfreesboro and apparently early this year it closed mysteriously. Do you know anything about it?

    Reply
  34. Pingback: 19 Delicious Recipes Just As Good As Your Mother’s Cooking – Health Food House

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