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local milk is a journal devoted to home cookery, travel, family, and slow living—to being present & finding sustenance of every kind. It’s about nesting abroad & finding the exotic in the everyday. Most of all it’s about the perfection of imperfections and seeing the beauty of everyday, mundane life.

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A long time ago in a different life (or at least i A long time ago in a different life (or at least it feels that way) I was riding in a car at night with @whereissionnie to meet up with @ruthielindsey and @1924us for bonfires and general cabin shenanigans outside of Nashville. 

I remember the drive so well. It’s a conversation that always stuck with me. We talked about trauma and crisis. And I don’t know much, but I shared the only thing I know, a thing that has served me well through the natural undulations life is bound to bring.

And that is simply sometimes you have to cling to the mast. You aren’t doing anything but surviving but that’s the most important work of all. Because the storm WILL pass. And you‘ll be left standing.

And when it does you can mend the sails. Untangle the ropes. And get on with the business of sailing.

I’ve learned to give myself permission to do nothing but make it through. To sleep a little too late. To dance in front of the mirror and feel myself even when I look ridiculous. To load and unload the dishwasher and allow that to be a great victory. To dress like a cartoon character in nothing but white t-shirts and denim shorts.  To eat mac & cheese from a box and frozen chicken nuggets sometimes. To not respond to text messages. To flail and get back up over and over. To ask for help. A lot.

And also permission to feel it all. Rage. Grief. Joy. Hope and hopelessness. And sometimes all within the span of a few minutes. 

And most of all, whether navigating calm waters or stormy ones, what matters more than anything is the crew you’re doing it with. Surround yourself with solid people.

People that challenge you with compassion. And humor. People whose strengths buttress your weakness. People that don’t judge you. That believe in you even when you think they’re maniacs for doing so.

I know a disproportionate amount of us have had rough seas this year. Cling to the mast in the storm. Choose your crew wisely. No storm ever lasted forever. But there never was a last storm in the world. Accept that they will come and be prepared.

Ricotta & Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Buttermilk Mornay, Fresh Figs, and Pancetta

Cook

10.01.2012

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi with buttermilk mornay, fresh figs, & pancettasweet potato ricotta gnocchi
So. I made this gnocchi on TV today. Wait. Let me rephrase that. I attempted to demonstrate how to make this gnocchi dough on TV today. What I actually did was just kind of mush my hands around in a pile of egg yolk, ricotta, and sweet potato. Six minutes is, apparently, a lot shorter than it seems. I did, however, succeed in making a very brilliant mess. The mess, a real sticky, floury one, it was tops. So don’t do that at home! Do what I say to do below instead. Then you will have beautiful, fluffy pillows of lightly spiced goodness. That said, it was such fun, a learning experience if you will, and next time I’m going to fully embrace TV magic and come with everything already made. Everything. And there will be a next time. And that next time will be a dadgum pie. I will vanquish the short cooking demo TV segment with pie, you’ll see.

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi

After I was off camera I proceeded to finish making my dough in a calm fashion. I wasn’t about to let perfectly good homemade ricotta and local sweet potatoes and egg go to waste. Them’s, as they say, good eatin’. I know gnocchi can have a reputation as a bit of a bear to work with, but I assure you this dough is exceedingly simple. (So simple, in fact, I delusionally thought I could do it in a few minutes my first time on camera…)

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi with buttermilk mornay, fresh figs, & pancetta

All it takes is a sense of touch. Think with your fingers. You don’t want your dough too sticky to handle nor do you want to add too much flour. So just add flour bit by bit, I usually start with half a cup and add 1/4 cup at a time after that up to 1 1/4 cups total. So just add it until your gnocchi is a workable, soft play-dough-like consistency. Adding too much flour will make your gnocchi tough, so easy does it. The excellent thing about this is once you’ve made your gnocchi and lined them all up on your baking sheet like little soldiers you can freeze them (on the sheet tray to prevent sticking) and then toss them all in a ziplock in the freezer and keep them for up to 3 months. Which means that nothing stands between you and impromptu homemade gnocchi but a pot of boiling water, about 3 minutes, and deciding what to put with them. And I’m here to help with that last part. Figs! Buttermilk mornay (aka cheese sauce)! Pancetta (aka bacon)! If this seems odd, just trust me. It’ll be real good, baby. You’ll see.

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi
sweet potato ricotta gnocchi

We eat a lot of sweet potatoes when they abound at the market, specifically, we eat a lot of baked sweet potatoes. Butter, salt, and little else. But even for sweet potato enthusiasts such as ourselves (I think the high levels of potassium excite us…), baked sweet potatoes night after night can get boring. Herein lies the solution.

The other great thing about these gnocchi are how affordable they are. I don’t usually go on about how quick, cheap, and convenient things are (though these are all of those things). I think that sort of mindset and language reduces your meals to a love affair in the red light district. Even still, the beautiful thing about shopping at the market and using raw ingredients instead of preprepared ones is that you do save money in cutting out the middle man. Added bonus, you get a far better tasting product and your money goes to your community. Wins abound.

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi with buttermilk mornay, fresh figs, & pancetta

 

Sweet Potato Ricotta Gnocchi with Buttermilk Mornay Sauce, Fresh Figs, & Pancetta

Velvety is a food word, a food word that one arguably should eschew. That, unfortunately, just isn’t practical in this situation. These are, for sure, velvety. The sauce is velvety. Hell, the figs are velvety. The crispy pancetta adds just the right amount of crunch to offset it. And the flavor profile is a well orchestrated team effort. The lightly spiced gnocchi are creamy and ever so slightly sweet as are the figs while the buttermilk mornay chimes in with tangy, salty notes which are further punctuated by the pancetta, and all of it is brightened with an herbaceous bite from either chives or sage. A peppery green like watercress or arugula would be good here too. This is nonna meets grand-mère meets grandma, an Italian classic in a French sauce with Southern flavors. In short, no matter where you are or hail from, this is comfort food for fall.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
For Gnocchi:
2 lbs sweet potatoes
1 large egg yolk
2/3 cup whole milk ricotta (Drained if using store bought, but I make my own using this recipe.)
1-1 ½ cups all purpose flour
pinch freshly grated nutmeg
¼ tsp cinnamon
For Mornay Sauce:
2 Tbsp butter
3 Tbsp all purpose flour
2 cups buttermilk
fresh grated nutmeg
cayenne
¼ tsp salt
2 oz grated gruyere cheese (about ½ cup, packed)
To Serve:
12 figs, quartered
6 slices pancetta, fried crispy and crumbled
fresh chives, chopped fine (sage is also good here)
To make gnocchi:
Prick potatoes all over with a fork and steam in microwave wrapped in damp paper towels until tender all the way through when pierced & fully cooked. Rotate half way through cooking, about 3-5 minutes per side for medium sized potatoes. Alternately, roast in a 400° F oven about 50-60 minutes.
While potatoes are still hot, handling with towels, slice in half. Scoop flesh out and press through a potato ricer into a rectangle (not a pile). Alternately you can use a food mill or box grater to shred the potatoes. Let cool until about room temperature. (Note: the potatoes are riced hot and into a rectangle to maximize their release of steam because the less moisture in your potatoes the less flour you will need to add resulting in lighter gnocchi. Also, I do not salt my gnocchi as salt draws in moisture, making for mushy gnocchi. Rather, I generously salt the cooking water. The more you know…)

Drizzle potatoes with egg yolk, crumble the ricotta on top, and sprinkle ½ cup of flour on top. Using a bench scraper or spatula, cut the flour, yolk, and ricotta into the potatoes using a chopping motion until beginning to become incorporated. Then start using the bench scraper to fold the mixture together. Sprinkle with an additional ¼ cup of flour, and chop/fold it in. At this point I switch to using my hands, lightly floured.

Gather the dough into a ball. If the dough is still too sticky to do this, work in up to an additional ¼ cup flour. Pat dough into a disc. If disc is too sticky, sprinkle with another ¼ cup flour.  Work in flour, if needed, until just not too sticky to handle. Form dough into a compact log and let rest 5 minutes.

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi

Cut log into 8 individual segments. Lightly flour work surface. Roll one segment out at a time into 1” thick logs. Cut logs into individual pieces, about 1”. To create grooves, the gnocchi can be rolled on a gnocchi board or the tines of the fork. This step is optional. Place formed gnocchi on a parchment lined baking sheet. Refrigerate until ready to cook if cooking soon, otherwise the gnocchi can be frozen on the sheet tray and then placed into a ziplock bag and kept in the freezer up to 3 months. To cook frozen gnocchi just put directly from freezer into boiling water just as with fresh gnocchi, do not thaw.

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi
To make sauce:
Melt 2 tbsp butter over low heat. Stir in 3 Tbsp flour. Bring roux to a bubble on medium low and let cook about two minutes, careful not to brown. Meanwhile warm buttermilk slowly and ¼ tsp salt until just warm. Do not get it too hot or it will curdle, just warm it gently. Whisking constantly slowly pour warm buttermilk into roux. Bring to a boil over medium high heat and whisk constantly until thickened. Remove from heat, stir in fresh nutmeg & cayenne to taste. Stir in cheese until fully melted. Taste and adjust seasoning if desired. Sauce can be kept warm over a simmering water bath, stirring occasionally to prevent skin from forming or it can be just set aside, uncovered, if using shortly. Again, stir to prevent skin.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add gnocchi. Give them a gentle stir after a few seconds to prevent sticking. Cook about 2 minutes or until they float to the top. Remove, draining well, with a slotted spoon or spider. Toss gently with mornay sauce, pancetta, and figs. Sprinkle with chives and serve immediately.

sweet potato ricotta gnocchi with buttermilk mornay, fresh figs, & pancetta

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tags: buttermilk, cheese, chive, dumpling, fall, figs, gnocchi, gruyere, homemade ricotta, italian, mornay, pancetta, sage, sauce, southern, sweet potato, sweet potato gnocchi, yam

47 thoughts on “Ricotta & Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Buttermilk Mornay, Fresh Figs, and Pancetta”

  1. Isabelle @ Crumb says:
    October 1, 2012 at 4:31 pm

    I can’t imagine making anything on-camera without it turning into a complete disaster, so I tip my hat to you for being brave enough to even attempt gnocchi on TV. 🙂
    Also, this combination of flavours sounds oh-so-perfect for early fall, and finally gives me an idea for using up the figs I have at home (aside from just eating them, which I’ve done plenty of already). This is totally going on next week’s menu!

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 10:53 pm

      It’s funny, I went over to my parents and watched the clip and it *felt* like such a bigger disaster than it looked like on camera. It’s weird… perception really is reality (at least one order of reality). What I experienced and what I later watched were two different dimensions! So, so weird… but thank god it wasn’t as fail as it felt!. Let me know how they turn out!

      Reply
  2. Mary Walker Designs says:
    October 1, 2012 at 5:46 pm

    This looks delicious

    Reply
  3. Carol | a cup of mascarpone says:
    October 1, 2012 at 7:23 pm

    I am speechless. This is gorgeous!!!

    Reply
  4. Eileen says:
    October 1, 2012 at 9:20 pm

    OMG, these look so good! I’ve never thought to mix fresh figs with sweet potato in any form, let alone beautiful gnocchi, but I clearly must do so immediately.

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 11:22 pm

      I figured that figs do a good job of crossing over into savory (think bacon wrapped figs), and I haven’t been able to stop eating them… so… that’s how they ended up in here!

      Reply
  5. london bakes says:
    October 2, 2012 at 4:53 am

    Adore this combination of flavours with the salt and the sweet and the richness and just everything.

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 11:23 pm

      The rich flavors with the airy texture really did it for me. It’s indulgent but not heavy.

      Reply
  6. Rebekka Seale says:
    October 2, 2012 at 7:40 am

    Dang….this is so right on.

    Reply
  7. Renee says:
    October 2, 2012 at 9:33 am

    such a beautiful autumnal dish. i will definitely bookmark this post for future reference 🙂

    lingerinrepose.blogspot.com

    Reply
  8. Amanda Jane Jones says:
    October 2, 2012 at 10:07 am

    Oh my goodness! This looks amazing.

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 10:52 pm

      Oh wow. Thank you! Your work is so inspiring… such a compliment coming from you!

      Reply
  9. Morgan says:
    October 2, 2012 at 11:09 am

    This looks phenomenal! I’ve been trying to cook gluten free for my Celiac roomie. Have you ever worked with gluten free flour and if so, do you think it would work with this recipe?

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 10:47 pm

      I have worked with various flours but have only used wheat flour for gnocchi. This recipe recommends 1 cup white rice flour and 1/2 a cup of sweet rice flour. Hope that helps! Love to hear how it turns out if you try rice flour gnocchi! http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2012/06/gluten-free-potato-gnocchi-recipe.html

      Reply
  10. Sippity Sup says:
    October 2, 2012 at 1:30 pm

    You food is always so luscious. This is so very much what I love. GREG

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 10:49 pm

      Thank you! And that Sunday Suppers post is still in the backlog… ugh… you know how it goes! Hopefully it will get up, terribly belated this month… I want to share it so bad but other things keep usurping it (recipes….)

      Reply
  11. Kiwi says:
    October 2, 2012 at 3:38 pm

    I too would like to know if Gluten Free flour would work. Recently was told to cut all gluten out if my diet and I am hating life!

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 2, 2012 at 10:48 pm

      Though I’ve never tried it, apparently a mix of white rice flour & sweet rice flour yields a good result, according to this link. So it would be about 1 cup of white rice flour and 1/2 cup sweet rice flour http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2012/06/gluten-free-potato-gnocchi-recipe.html

      Reply
  12. Natalie DeAmicis says:
    October 3, 2012 at 1:28 am

    I’m pretty sure I found my new favorite food that I never knew I always wanted! So yummy!

    Reply
  13. Madonna says:
    October 3, 2012 at 1:35 am

    Ok, I am loving buttermilk, but I did not know you could use buttermilk to make Mornay sauce. I would like to make gnocchi and homemade pasta, but for some reason I keep putting it off. I have been doing some grand-mère cooking research so when I saw this recipe my ears got pointy. I will have to try this.

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 17, 2012 at 1:32 am

      Do try it. But if trying a buttermilk bechamel/mornay be very careful to heat the buttermilk slowly and to only get it warm. It will totally curdle on you. If you see it separating a little bit, I usually can just whisk it in and get it creamy, but sometimes if I’m not careful it goes to far. So yeah, easy does it. But it’s so worth it for the tang!

      Reply
  14. Madonna says:
    October 3, 2012 at 1:42 am

    P.S. I forgot to ask about tv. Are you doing a show? Can we view it? Elaborate please.

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 17, 2012 at 1:32 am

      I did a short little cooking demo on local tv here. I want to post the link but they are changing how they upload their videos and it’s not up yet!

      Reply
  15. Anna Kurzaeva says:
    October 3, 2012 at 12:56 pm

    Looks incredibly delicious! I love the colors – so cheerful. And the pattern on gnocchi is so pretty.

    Reply
  16. vanilla bean blog says:
    October 3, 2012 at 4:05 pm

    I’m so sorry your TV debut didn’t go as planned, but these look amazing anyway!
    I love sweet potatoes, and am always looking for good excuses to use them. I will have to try this soon!

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 3, 2012 at 6:34 pm

      honestly, after actually watching it… it wasn’t that bad. goofy, but I don’t even look as remotely panicked as I felt. Really the only sign that I was totally nervous was when the guy said “so you could put these on lettuce?” and i’m like “yeah….” Mmmm… gnocchi salad.. lol

      Reply
  17. Courtney @educatedderelicts says:
    October 3, 2012 at 4:17 pm

    This looks absolutely delicious – such a perfect combination of flavors and so beautifully presented 🙂

    Reply
  18. RecipeGirl says:
    October 3, 2012 at 5:40 pm

    Everything about this dish looks delicious. If I ordered it in a restaurant, I couldn’t be happier!

    Reply
  19. Addie K Martin says:
    October 4, 2012 at 7:05 am

    Oh my this looks amazing!! 🙂 What great flavors. And also congrats on your first TV appearance. very exciting!

    Reply
    1. Local Milk says:
      October 17, 2012 at 1:33 am

      Thank you. I won’t lie… I hope it isn’t the last, I’m kind of into it!

      Reply
  20. dervla @ The Curator says:
    October 4, 2012 at 4:40 pm

    oooh I’ve always wanted to make gnocchi … this looks gorgeous. Congrats on the TV! I bet you did way better than you thought. It always feels bigger in your head.

    Reply
  21. Anthony says:
    November 5, 2012 at 9:57 pm

    Great info…looks like it will make a brilliant gnocchi…Thanks.

    Reply
  22. solveyourcrisis.com says:
    November 15, 2012 at 11:22 am

    Looks fabulous – I can already taste all those wonderful flavors. I’m curious – do you think a butternut squash could be used instead of the sweet potatoes? Or maybe even pumpkin? I’m thinking there could be several variations here. I have a butternut baking in the oven as I type this and well, my mind went to wandering! 🙂

    Reply
  23. solveyourcrisis.com says:
    November 15, 2012 at 1:35 pm

    UPDATE: ok – I couldn’t resist – I just used butternut squash in place of the sweet potato (and didn’t have ricotta on hand, so just did a simple egg/flour mixture) and I must say – it is dvine. I tried a batch pan-fried in olive oil and butter as well as a batch boiled. I can’t wait to add the ricotta next time and to use the cheese sauce, etc. Oh my – I see gnocchi permutations in my near future! LOVE your blog – you inspire me every day Miss Beth!

    Reply
  24. Anonymous says:
    February 6, 2013 at 10:50 am

    My husband isn’t crazy about creamy sauces so I made the gnocci last night with a balsamic reduction/ walnuts/ sauteed mushrooms/ gorgonzola and served it over greens. It was pretty awesome (even if the gnocci themselves were a little misshapen.)

    Reply
  25. Chung-Ah | Damn Delicious says:
    April 21, 2013 at 12:31 pm

    Wow, there’s so much amazingness happening here, or as my boyfriend would say – “there’s too many Kobe Bryants on the team!”

    I’ll definitely have to give this a try. It looks to die for!

    Reply
    1. Beth Kirby | {local milk} says:
      April 21, 2013 at 9:44 pm

      This totally made me lol. You have to try it. It’s a sort of literal win. : D

      Reply
  26. Rachel @ Bakerita says:
    April 21, 2013 at 2:09 pm

    Wow, these gnocchi are gorgeous and the photos are stunning. I definitely need to try out this recipe!! Pinned 🙂

    Reply
  27. Adi says:
    October 29, 2013 at 3:01 pm

    Made this last week – and it turned out awesome. We are only two, so I froze most of the gnocchis for a rainy day, which was actually the next day in the calendar :).
    This time I gave the pancetta (or in my case bacon) a ride in a pan and I topped it over with the sauce and then the gnocchis (in the pan) – which made the flavors even more incorporated!
    Too sad that I cant make it this week too – as the fig season is over here 🙁

    Thanks for the great recipe!

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      October 29, 2013 at 3:07 pm

      So glad you made it & super glad you liked it! Thanks for the feedback, always appreciated.

      Reply
  28. ambrosia says:
    January 29, 2014 at 1:43 pm

    Making homemade gnocchi is a lot of work, but this recipe is worth it! The sauce was truly amazing – I will make this recipe again, but with store bought gnocchi 🙂

    Reply
  29. di from the culinary library says:
    January 30, 2014 at 9:46 am

    The Culinary Library has researched gnocchi recipes endlessly and agree with you that ricotta is the way to go. The original Ancient Roman recipe didn’t have potato though and it was a much later addition. We posted the original ancient recipe and think its the lightest and softest we’ve made. http://www.theculinarylibrary.com/2012/01/ricotta-gnocchi-saffron-cream-sauce-recipe/

    Reply
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  33. bonneyboys says:
    September 10, 2015 at 9:30 am

    Made this for the first time last September when figs were in and it was such a hit, we carried it through to late Fall, making & eating it on the beach on the island, substituting a thick fig preserve for fresh. This recipe has become the biggest signifier that we’re on the cusp of a new season- making it tonight for my 11 year old’s birthday!

    Reply
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