I went to the market in Venice yesterday, gathered winter citrus & fresh eggs—the sun, the eye, some strange warmth in the dead of winter—and walked back to my friend Skye’s family home through the narrow streets and over marbled bridges that arch canals the color of eyes that waver so undecided between green & blue. I felt light of step and grateful and safe and all manner of things one would hope to feel from time to time. I laid the citrus out when I returned, and they, the mandarins and oranges and lemons so spread upon the marble kitchen island with the spectres of branches still clinging to their stems, struck me as summer trying to communicate from the grave. Like Persephone sighing somewhere down below. Summer, I thought, haunts winter. And I felt warm.
I hovered back and forth from the kitchen (where my friend, and incidentally very talented chef, Aaron was doing, if I’m honest, most of the work) to the little wooden table by the window where I was photographing and styling, and before I knew it, it was time to bake them off. Many hands, as they say, make light work. The meringue was whipped into glossy clouds. Positively shiny. And that’s why I love Italian meringue, and it seemed only fitting given that we’re in Italy.
I always opt for an Italian meringue, be it my Tennessee kitchen or elsewhere. It’s only a small extra step, and well worth the minimal effort for a meringue that really lasts & behaves. An Italian meringue is, essentially, whipped egg whites in which you pour a simple syrup cooked to the soft ball stage. It won’t weep, and the syrup “cooks” the fluffy whites, rendering them shiny & sturdy.
Meringues require, naturally, the separation of a fair amount of yolks from the whites (I always save the yolks for custard or bread pudding or some such other yolk heavy thing). Everyone has their way of doing this, but one of the nicest ways saves you from dirtying either your hands or anything else: using the halves of the shells to pass the yolk back & forth allowing the whites to fall down in to a bowl. It’s a pleasant, tactile process. I love separating eggs. It always makes me think of Bataille. There’s a video from Samsung’s #ChefSecrets series below for those of you that haven’t given this method a go before. And if you want to head over to Instagram they’re having a contest that involves giving away a shiny, new fridge. You can create a video or photograph to enter; it’s well worth a shot.
Ingredients
- 5 large eggs
- 1 egg yolk (reserve white for the meringue)
- 200g (1 cup) granulated sugar
- 1 blood orange (preferably unwaxed), grated zest and juice
- 1 meyer lemon (preferably unwaxed), grated zest and juice
- 2-3 satsumas or mandarins (preferably unwaxed), juice
- 200 ml double cream
- 4 egg whites
- 200 grams (1 cup) sugar
- 1/3 cup water
- 1 batch of your favorite recipe for paté brisee (pie dough)
Instructions
- Heat oven to 425°F. Par-bake (blind bake) your shell or shells in the pans of your choice. Prick the bottoms evenly & lightly with a fork. Make sure to weight them either by lining them with parchment and filling it with dried beans, rice, or pie weights. They should be golden & just about half way cooked, about 15 minutes and less time if making minis like pictured here. Remove to the counter. Reduce heat to 350°F.
- Zest and juice your citrus. You can use any combination of citrus. You should end up with about 180 ml (or about 3/4 cup). You can any combination of citrus you like. Set aside combined in a bowl.
- Make your filling. Whisk the eggs, egg yolk, and sugar together in a medium mixing bowl until smooth and foamy, about 5-10 minutes by hand.
- Whisk the cream into the egg & sugar mixture, then pour the citrus juices & zest into the cream mixture. Using a large pyrex measuring cup, pour the filling mixture into a par-baked pastry shell or shells with them sitting on the oven rack (so you don't have to move sloshy, filled shells) bake for about 45 min. to an hour until just set.
- Remove the tart from the oven and allow to cool on a rack. Turn the oven back up to 425°F.
- Meanwhile, make your meringue. In the bowl of a stand mixer whip your egg whites to soft peaks. In a small saucepan combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil. Boil until it reaches 238°F on candy thermometer, and then, with the mixer running on medium, carefully pour the hot syrup into the egg whites. Beat on high until the bowl is cool to the touch, at least 15 minutes.
- Top the tarts with the meringue, using the back of a spoon to create curls. Make sure to cover the entire surface of the filling. Bake the meringue covered tarts for about 5 minutes but start checking at three until the tips are nicely browned.
This post is brought to you by Samsung. Try one of our top #chefsecrets tips next time you’re whipping something up. Terms and details of the contest available here.
Your work is breathtaking…the mood and the lighting are always stunning.
I adore Skye’s work as well…how lucky I am (we all are) to have the two of working together.
I love meringue! I’m still working on some of your other recipes that I have collected but these tarts will probably make their way to the top of the list. 🙂
Gosh, those photographs are devine! I’ve been enjoying your instagrams too. Merenique is my absolute favorite!
Wish you a lovely time in Italy!
Love this, Beth. What a great way to think about winter citrus. I also love that you traveled to Italy with your food props – you must have needed a prop suitcase!
Your photographs are stunning! I’ve been enjoying your instagrams too. And meringue is my absolute favorite. <3
I wish you a lovely stay in Italy!
I am also a fan of the tactile process of separating eggs – and even more of a fan of meringues! Though I have to say I’ve never heard of Italian meringue – how does it differ?
The second pictures could have as well been painted by a genius from Italy! Absolutely gorgeous! I guess you’re the genius then!
Such pretty little tarts :3
Your images are so beautiful. Looking at them feels like one is right there.
Lovely post. Always enjoy what you have to say, Beth.
Everything about this post is delicious ~ the recipe, the photography, your words. I can’t wait to try my hand at Italian meringue – I’ve never made it that way before, and it sounds wonderful!
❤ Stacey @ http://www.sweetlittlesparrow.com
Been loving all of the Venice shots you’ve been sharing! Hope you’re having the loveliest of times!
Absolutely stunning!
Your photos are absolutely stunning!
So in love with the mood and the light of your photography! Beautiful Venice and my favorite cake!
Truth be said I have always firmly believed that Summer haunts Winter all through January, with its citrus fruits… Ahhh I would so love to be there just breathing in your knowledge and Skye’s, two of my fave and most talented people in the web!! I would even try eating meringue, as I so do not enjoy it!!
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Italian meringue is definitely the best! And your photos of Venice are lovely!! I haven’t been in a few years, so it’s nice to see some pictures again 🙂
You do such an amazing job. I look forward to all of your posts!
The mood in these pics is pure magic and these tarts both sound and look divine. I’ve never made Italian meringue as Swiss meringue has always been my first choice. I definitely should give it a try! Somehow I’ve always thought it would be a more complicated process, but as you picture it in the recipe, it’s really simple! Enjoy the Venetian sun and moon. xx
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Your photographic journal is amazing. I love the moodiness of the pictures and the Italian meringue — wow! I can taste the tart flavors.
Beautiful photography!
I loved the dark violet sky over the lit canal , and of course all the rest of your pictures.
This looks absolutely stunning. Winter is a beautiful time of year, but I love the idea of summer reaching beyond the grave. The oranges give the pictures an incredible burst of colour. Is it risotto rice you’re using for your blind baking?
http://www.davidgriffen.co.uk/food-photography-blog
I just love your writing. It’s a constant inspiration for me. So visual and sensual — i love the way you use sentence length variation to break up the descriptions and create a more natural read, as if this is the way you talk.
The photography here is even a bit more amazing than what you usually post–what inspiration for me to leave my comfort zone and make something sweet!
Venice is a lovely town and your tarts are adorable! I am proud of my Italy, at least when it comes to kitchen and recipes 🙂
What is “double cream”? Is that the same as heavy cream?
yes!
beautiful. so, so beautiful.
The photography is beautiful. I am so inspired. These tarts look amazing as well. Just perfection!
Beautiful photos, makes me want to go back to Venice. I really enjoy the simple act of separating eggs, too. Somehow it’s very relaxing?
Winning a fridge sounds lovely. I think I’d much rather enjoy an Italian meringue in Venice. Happy Thursday, Kirby 🙂
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I love little tart tins. They’re darling and always slightly imperfect. What a perfect excuse to get them out again. Thanks for this recipe!
Your work is, as always, stunning. Such lovely little tarts.
The color of these oranges make an awesome contrast in the gray photos, love it!
Venice is beautiful!
Beautiful! And the tarts look tasty as well 🙂
A FEW THINGS… THOSE PHOTOS OF VENICE=BREATHTAKING. IM HOPING ONE DAY I’LL GET THERE. SECOND: THOSE LITTLE CUTE TART TINS= BEAUTIFUL. THEY REMIND ME OF SOMETHING I WOULD FIND IN THE WEE BACK OF MY GRANDMOTHER ON THE HILL’S, CUPBOARD IN AN OLD COFFEE TIN. THIRD= THANK YOU FOR THE TIPS ON MERINGUE. THANKS FOR SHARING
So easy to get lost in your exquisite photography! Just finished baking this tart-looks beautiful and I can’t wait to taste it!
I keep coming back to these tarts. You work has inspired me to pick up a camera again.
I have to find time to make them before winter breaks.
Beth,
I love the tart shell forms you use. I was wondering where you got them from or the brand that makes them?
As always, stunning work,
Marielle
Gorgeous photos and beautiful writing. And yes, Italian meringues in Venice are amazing. Had them several times 🙂