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Meet Beth

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local milk is a journal devoted to home cookery, travel, family, and slow living—to being present & finding sustenance of every kind. It’s about nesting abroad & finding the exotic in the everyday. Most of all it’s about the perfection of imperfections and seeing the beauty of everyday, mundane life.

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Insta-Milk

A long time ago in a different life (or at least i A long time ago in a different life (or at least it feels that way) I was riding in a car at night with @whereissionnie to meet up with @ruthielindsey and @1924us for bonfires and general cabin shenanigans outside of Nashville. 

I remember the drive so well. It’s a conversation that always stuck with me. We talked about trauma and crisis. And I don’t know much, but I shared the only thing I know, a thing that has served me well through the natural undulations life is bound to bring.

And that is simply sometimes you have to cling to the mast. You aren’t doing anything but surviving but that’s the most important work of all. Because the storm WILL pass. And you‘ll be left standing.

And when it does you can mend the sails. Untangle the ropes. And get on with the business of sailing.

I’ve learned to give myself permission to do nothing but make it through. To sleep a little too late. To dance in front of the mirror and feel myself even when I look ridiculous. To load and unload the dishwasher and allow that to be a great victory. To dress like a cartoon character in nothing but white t-shirts and denim shorts.  To eat mac & cheese from a box and frozen chicken nuggets sometimes. To not respond to text messages. To flail and get back up over and over. To ask for help. A lot.

And also permission to feel it all. Rage. Grief. Joy. Hope and hopelessness. And sometimes all within the span of a few minutes. 

And most of all, whether navigating calm waters or stormy ones, what matters more than anything is the crew you’re doing it with. Surround yourself with solid people.

People that challenge you with compassion. And humor. People whose strengths buttress your weakness. People that don’t judge you. That believe in you even when you think they’re maniacs for doing so.

I know a disproportionate amount of us have had rough seas this year. Cling to the mast in the storm. Choose your crew wisely. No storm ever lasted forever. But there never was a last storm in the world. Accept that they will come and be prepared.

Winter Citrus Meringue Tarts in Venice

Cook

01.07.2015

winter citrus meringue tarts

winter citrus meringue tarts

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winter citrus meringue tarts

I went to the market in Venice yesterday, gathered winter citrus & fresh eggs—the sun, the eye, some strange warmth in the dead of winter—and walked back to my friend Skye’s family home through the narrow streets and over marbled bridges that arch canals the color of eyes that waver so undecided between green & blue. I felt light of step and grateful and safe and all manner of things one would hope to feel from time to time. I laid the citrus out when I returned, and they, the mandarins and oranges and lemons so spread upon the marble kitchen island with the spectres of branches still clinging to their stems, struck me as summer trying to communicate from the grave. Like Persephone sighing somewhere down below. Summer, I thought, haunts winter. And I felt warm.

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winter citrus meringue tarts

winter citrus meringue tarts

venice, italy

I hovered back and forth from the kitchen (where my friend, and incidentally very talented chef, Aaron was doing, if I’m honest, most of the work) to the little wooden table by the window where I was photographing and styling, and before I knew it, it was time to bake them off. Many hands, as they say, make light work. The meringue was whipped into glossy clouds. Positively shiny. And that’s why I love Italian meringue, and it seemed only fitting given that we’re in Italy.

winter citrus meringue tarts

winter citrus meringue tarts

winter citrus meringue tarts

winter citrus meringue tarts

winter citrus meringue tarts

 

winter citrus meringue tarts

Y75A5058.jpg

I always opt for an Italian meringue, be it my Tennessee kitchen or elsewhere. It’s only a small extra step, and well worth the minimal effort for a meringue that really lasts & behaves. An Italian meringue is, essentially, whipped egg whites in which you pour a simple syrup cooked to the soft ball stage. It won’t weep, and the syrup “cooks” the fluffy whites, rendering them shiny & sturdy.

Meringues require, naturally, the separation of a fair amount of yolks from the whites (I always save the yolks for custard or bread pudding or some such other yolk heavy thing). Everyone has their way of doing this, but one of the nicest ways saves you from dirtying either your hands or anything else: using the halves of the shells to pass the yolk back & forth allowing the whites to fall down in to a bowl. It’s a pleasant, tactile process. I love separating eggs. It always makes me think of Bataille. There’s a video from Samsung’s #ChefSecrets series below for those of you that haven’t given this method a go before. And if you want to head over to Instagram they’re having a contest that involves giving away a shiny, new fridge. You can create a video or photograph to enter; it’s well worth a shot.

venice at night

winter citrus meringue tarts

Print
winter citrus meringue tarts

Ingredients

  • 5 large eggs
  • 1 egg yolk (reserve white for the meringue)
  • 200g (1 cup) granulated sugar
  • 1 blood orange (preferably unwaxed), grated zest and juice
  • 1 meyer lemon (preferably unwaxed), grated zest and juice
  • 2-3 satsumas or mandarins (preferably unwaxed), juice
  • 200 ml double cream
  • For meringue
  • 4 egg whites
  • 200 grams (1 cup) sugar
  • 1/3 cup water
  • 1 batch of your favorite recipe for paté brisee (pie dough)

Instructions

  1. Heat oven to 425°F. Par-bake (blind bake) your shell or shells in the pans of your choice. Prick the bottoms evenly & lightly with a fork. Make sure to weight them either by lining them with parchment and filling it with dried beans, rice, or pie weights. They should be golden & just about half way cooked, about 15 minutes and less time if making minis like pictured here. Remove to the counter. Reduce heat to 350°F.
  2. Zest and juice your citrus. You can use any combination of citrus. You should end up with about 180 ml (or about 3/4 cup). You can any combination of citrus you like. Set aside combined in a bowl.
  3. Make your filling. Whisk the eggs, egg yolk, and sugar together in a medium mixing bowl until smooth and foamy, about 5-10 minutes by hand.
  4. Whisk the cream into the egg & sugar mixture, then pour the citrus juices & zest into the cream mixture. Using a large pyrex measuring cup, pour the filling mixture into a par-baked pastry shell or shells with them sitting on the oven rack (so you don't have to move sloshy, filled shells) bake for about 45 min. to an hour until just set.
  5. Remove the tart from the oven and allow to cool on a rack. Turn the oven back up to 425°F.
  6. Meanwhile, make your meringue. In the bowl of a stand mixer whip your egg whites to soft peaks. In a small saucepan combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil. Boil until it reaches 238°F on candy thermometer, and then, with the mixer running on medium, carefully pour the hot syrup into the egg whites. Beat on high until the bowl is cool to the touch, at least 15 minutes.
  7. Top the tarts with the meringue, using the back of a spoon to create curls. Make sure to cover the entire surface of the filling. Bake the meringue covered tarts for about 5 minutes but start checking at three until the tips are nicely browned.
3.1
https://localmilkblog.com/2015/01/winter-citrus-meringue-tarts.html

This post is brought to you by Samsung. Try one of our top #chefsecrets tips next time you’re whipping something up.  Terms and details of the contest available here.

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tags: baking, blood orange, curd, dessert, lemon, mandarin, meringue, meyer lemon, Pie, satsuma, tangerine, tart, tartlette, venice, winter

47 thoughts on “Winter Citrus Meringue Tarts in Venice”

  1. Pingback: winter citrus meringue tarts in venice | Paella Catering
  2. Sarah says:
    January 7, 2015 at 2:49 pm

    Your work is breathtaking…the mood and the lighting are always stunning.

    I adore Skye’s work as well…how lucky I am (we all are) to have the two of working together.

    I love meringue! I’m still working on some of your other recipes that I have collected but these tarts will probably make their way to the top of the list. 🙂

    Reply
  3. Janneke | Brom & Co. says:
    January 7, 2015 at 3:11 pm

    Gosh, those photographs are devine! I’ve been enjoying your instagrams too. Merenique is my absolute favorite!

    Wish you a lovely time in Italy!

    Reply
  4. Meg | bread + barrow says:
    January 7, 2015 at 3:12 pm

    Love this, Beth. What a great way to think about winter citrus. I also love that you traveled to Italy with your food props – you must have needed a prop suitcase!

    Reply
  5. Janneke | Brom & Co. says:
    January 7, 2015 at 3:14 pm

    Your photographs are stunning! I’ve been enjoying your instagrams too. And meringue is my absolute favorite. <3

    I wish you a lovely stay in Italy!

    Reply
  6. Ksenia @ At the Immigrant's Table says:
    January 7, 2015 at 4:50 pm

    I am also a fan of the tactile process of separating eggs – and even more of a fan of meringues! Though I have to say I’ve never heard of Italian meringue – how does it differ?

    Reply
  7. Joanna says:
    January 7, 2015 at 5:00 pm

    The second pictures could have as well been painted by a genius from Italy! Absolutely gorgeous! I guess you’re the genius then!

    Reply
  8. June Burns says:
    January 7, 2015 at 5:59 pm

    Such pretty little tarts :3

    Reply
  9. Ana says:
    January 7, 2015 at 6:11 pm

    Your images are so beautiful. Looking at them feels like one is right there.

    Reply
  10. Jude says:
    January 7, 2015 at 6:28 pm

    Lovely post. Always enjoy what you have to say, Beth.

    Reply
  11. Stacey says:
    January 7, 2015 at 10:36 pm

    Everything about this post is delicious ~ the recipe, the photography, your words. I can’t wait to try my hand at Italian meringue – I’ve never made it that way before, and it sounds wonderful!

    ❤ Stacey @ http://www.sweetlittlesparrow.com

    Reply
  12. Graham @ Glazed & Confused says:
    January 8, 2015 at 12:51 am

    Been loving all of the Venice shots you’ve been sharing! Hope you’re having the loveliest of times!

    Reply
  13. Sune Moolman says:
    January 8, 2015 at 2:55 am

    Absolutely stunning!

    Reply
  14. kari says:
    January 8, 2015 at 4:40 am

    Your photos are absolutely stunning!

    Reply
  15. Erica says:
    January 8, 2015 at 5:35 am

    So in love with the mood and the light of your photography! Beautiful Venice and my favorite cake!

    Reply
  16. Miranda says:
    January 8, 2015 at 6:43 am

    Truth be said I have always firmly believed that Summer haunts Winter all through January, with its citrus fruits… Ahhh I would so love to be there just breathing in your knowledge and Skye’s, two of my fave and most talented people in the web!! I would even try eating meringue, as I so do not enjoy it!!
    http://bloglairdutemps.blogspot.pt/

    Reply
  17. Katrina @ Warm Vanilla Sugar says:
    January 8, 2015 at 7:14 am

    Italian meringue is definitely the best! And your photos of Venice are lovely!! I haven’t been in a few years, so it’s nice to see some pictures again 🙂

    Reply
  18. Jodi@prairiekuchen says:
    January 8, 2015 at 8:50 am

    You do such an amazing job. I look forward to all of your posts!

    Reply
  19. Sini | My Blue&White Kitchen says:
    January 8, 2015 at 9:36 am

    The mood in these pics is pure magic and these tarts both sound and look divine. I’ve never made Italian meringue as Swiss meringue has always been my first choice. I definitely should give it a try! Somehow I’ve always thought it would be a more complicated process, but as you picture it in the recipe, it’s really simple! Enjoy the Venetian sun and moon. xx

    Reply
  20. Videntes Economicos says:
    January 8, 2015 at 12:25 pm

    If you are going for best contents like myself, only pay a quick visit this
    web site everyday for the reason that it presents feature contents, thanks

    Reply
  21. Marisa Franca @ All Our Way says:
    January 8, 2015 at 3:31 pm

    Your photographic journal is amazing. I love the moodiness of the pictures and the Italian meringue — wow! I can taste the tart flavors.

    Reply
  22. Justin @ SaltPepperSkillet says:
    January 8, 2015 at 4:16 pm

    Beautiful photography!

    Reply
  23. Dad says:
    January 8, 2015 at 7:43 pm

    I loved the dark violet sky over the lit canal , and of course all the rest of your pictures.

    Reply
  24. Pingback: Yum, We Love . . .
  25. David Griffen says:
    January 9, 2015 at 10:39 am

    This looks absolutely stunning. Winter is a beautiful time of year, but I love the idea of summer reaching beyond the grave. The oranges give the pictures an incredible burst of colour. Is it risotto rice you’re using for your blind baking?
    http://www.davidgriffen.co.uk/food-photography-blog

    Reply
  26. Renee (will frolic for food) says:
    January 9, 2015 at 11:19 am

    I just love your writing. It’s a constant inspiration for me. So visual and sensual — i love the way you use sentence length variation to break up the descriptions and create a more natural read, as if this is the way you talk.

    Reply
  27. Brian @ Kitchen Domination says:
    January 9, 2015 at 1:44 pm

    The photography here is even a bit more amazing than what you usually post–what inspiration for me to leave my comfort zone and make something sweet!

    Reply
  28. Sonja says:
    January 9, 2015 at 3:37 pm

    Venice is a lovely town and your tarts are adorable! I am proud of my Italy, at least when it comes to kitchen and recipes 🙂

    Reply
  29. Pingback: Weekend Links and Inspiration
  30. Alison says:
    January 10, 2015 at 10:33 am

    What is “double cream”? Is that the same as heavy cream?

    Reply
    1. beth says:
      January 13, 2015 at 10:05 am

      yes!

      Reply
  31. Abby says:
    January 10, 2015 at 6:41 pm

    beautiful. so, so beautiful.

    Reply
  32. Lauren says:
    January 11, 2015 at 10:16 am

    The photography is beautiful. I am so inspired. These tarts look amazing as well. Just perfection!

    Reply
  33. Pingback: Sunday Swoon - Fork Knife Swoon
  34. Grace | Sweet Spree says:
    January 12, 2015 at 11:49 am

    Beautiful photos, makes me want to go back to Venice. I really enjoy the simple act of separating eggs, too. Somehow it’s very relaxing?

    Reply
  35. LoveCompassionateLee says:
    January 15, 2015 at 4:02 am

    Winning a fridge sounds lovely. I think I’d much rather enjoy an Italian meringue in Venice. Happy Thursday, Kirby 🙂
    http://www.lovecompassionatelee.com/thinkoutloud/2015/1/15/11515

    Reply
  36. Janet says:
    January 17, 2015 at 7:13 pm

    I love little tart tins. They’re darling and always slightly imperfect. What a perfect excuse to get them out again. Thanks for this recipe!

    Reply
  37. kristie {birch and wild} says:
    January 17, 2015 at 10:32 pm

    Your work is, as always, stunning. Such lovely little tarts.

    Reply
  38. Colorogy says:
    January 18, 2015 at 5:12 pm

    The color of these oranges make an awesome contrast in the gray photos, love it!

    Venice is beautiful!

    Reply
  39. A Cook Not Mad (Nat) says:
    January 21, 2015 at 4:44 am

    Beautiful! And the tarts look tasty as well 🙂

    Reply
  40. Alycia@foodblogit says:
    January 21, 2015 at 6:29 am

    A FEW THINGS… THOSE PHOTOS OF VENICE=BREATHTAKING. IM HOPING ONE DAY I’LL GET THERE. SECOND: THOSE LITTLE CUTE TART TINS= BEAUTIFUL. THEY REMIND ME OF SOMETHING I WOULD FIND IN THE WEE BACK OF MY GRANDMOTHER ON THE HILL’S, CUPBOARD IN AN OLD COFFEE TIN. THIRD= THANK YOU FOR THE TIPS ON MERINGUE. THANKS FOR SHARING

    Reply
  41. Pingback: Establishing Your Blog Photo Style | White Oak Creative
  42. Jayne Wilson says:
    January 29, 2015 at 4:51 pm

    So easy to get lost in your exquisite photography! Just finished baking this tart-looks beautiful and I can’t wait to taste it!

    Reply
  43. Cassandra says:
    February 9, 2015 at 12:50 pm

    I keep coming back to these tarts. You work has inspired me to pick up a camera again.
    I have to find time to make them before winter breaks.

    Reply
  44. Marielle says:
    February 15, 2015 at 12:20 pm

    Beth,

    I love the tart shell forms you use. I was wondering where you got them from or the brand that makes them?

    As always, stunning work,

    Marielle

    Reply
  45. Leo Sigh says:
    March 29, 2015 at 3:44 am

    Gorgeous photos and beautiful writing. And yes, Italian meringues in Venice are amazing. Had them several times 🙂

    Reply
  46. Pingback: Kung Hee Fat Choy! - FarmLovers Farmers' Markets

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