Both at home abroad and abroad at home, I nest wherever I go, and I wander when I’m at home. It’s all such an adventure, eggs and soldiers and country roads. Without fail, I decide I’m going to move to every place I travel. Ireland was no exception, and I harbor not so secret fantasies of him pursuing his masters in psychology at Trinity while I attend Ballymaloe Cookery School, of weekends getting lost in a labyrinth of stone walls built for stone walls sake, for the sake of too many stones. The way I see it, one day I won’t wake up from one of my dreams. Some are bound to come true. I throw lots of pennies in the well. Maybe Ireland will come true.
I know for two verdant weeks of the devil beating his wife in May it was. When it rains and shines at the same time that’s what we say, what southerner’s say, that “the devil’s beating his wife”. At least that’s what I heard this one time somewhere, once. I don’t remember really. All I know is that whenever it rains and shines I think “the devil’s beating his wife”. I thought that a lot in Ireland. The weather’s everything they say it is, a year of season’s in a day. It makes the land feel fierce & ruled by hormonal deities, hot and cold and young. Sauvage! the French say. It’s a land of ley lines & neoliths, sea cliffs & faerie rings. But also endless cups of tea, smoked fish, raw cheese, and elderflower cordial. And rainbows and rainbows and double rainbows. Our first day in Dublin the sun shone all day.
We flew into Dublin though we really had our eye on the west. I hear Shannon has a very nice airport, much overlooked. The locals went on about it, what a shame that it isn’t used, that no one knows. We’ll look into it next time as should anyone aiming for the west of Ireland. But I’m glad we spent a little time in Dublin, not sorry about that at all though it was really only one jet lagged day. Off the plane we hopped a bus to the Cliff Townhouse (opting to pick up our car the next morning to avoid the apparent terror of driving as a foreigner in Dublin), a pretty little B&B with an even prettier restaurant. Lots of oysters, so white. We didn’t have dinner there but rather breakfast. We ate so much breakfast in Ireland that I could recount our trip in breakfasts alone.
After dropping our heavy bags (and I could have sworn I packed light) we wandered Stephen’s Green and Dawson Street, took coffees with some of the most beautiful latté art (that’s what we call it right?) I’ve seen (the trash talk I’d heard about Irish coffee proved to be unfounded) and ogled the pastries at Walter Mitty’s before heading to Trinity to behold the library & ancient Book of Kells. You do feel something chilly & old and think strange things about the human mind when you look at it. We humans do such things. We couldn’t not see it. He especially couldn’t not, being forever in the company of books. One of the deepest expressions of affection he ever bestowed on me was telling me that if it were me or his books, he’d burn the books. So you see, we really couldn’t not. He was, as they say, in heaven. I wished I could give him the whole damn thing. “Happy Birthday, love…here’s the old Trinity College library!” I like to think he could live there, grow a long gray beard, and haunt it like a dead poet. But he’s very much an alive poet & he can’t bear to go more than a day or two at most without shaving. But I still like the idea of Patrick the Beared Poet Ghost of the Long Hall. He’d be in good company, as I’m pretty sure there are already some formidable poet ghosts in that hall.
For our first proper meal in Ireland, we went to a little bookstore come restaurant called (after the Yeats poem) The Winding Stair for what proved to be an excellent introduction to the food of Ireland. Which is remarkable. Really truly cannot speak highly enough of the food. Tuscany, Provence, the Basque country. Food destinations, right? Ireland, in our experience at least (we did have the benefit of some excellent advice from Imen of the blog Farmette), was right up there with them all. I wasn’t able to eat enough. Local food, that things I’m always on about, is thriving there, it seemed. Salmon from the burren, cheeses from Cork, mollosks from Kilcolgan. As one of our hosts at the breathtaking Ballyvolane House (which I’ll tell you all about in the next installment) put it “everyone in Ireland is at most only once removed from the farm”.
So I digress. The Winding Stair, a gezellig little gem right on the liffy. We had smoked fish paté with a panko fried soft boiled egg & black pudding fritters, crispy chicken with plums & hake piled high with pickled shrimp and rocket. Afterwards we had more lacy, intricate coffees, chocolate mousse with pistachio & cream, and little biscuits. Patrick’s enjoyment of food pales in comparison to my own. Sometimes I joke that we’re Jack Spratt & his wife of Mother Goose fame. But he was just as enthusiastic about The Winding Stair as I was, which is saying something given his natural indifference to food (opposites attract & all that).
The next morning we picked up our tiny blue car as I repeated in my head “left, left, left” & quickly overcame my mortal terror at driving on the opposite side of the road and we headed southwest to our next destination, Ballyvolane House. The weather was manic that day & the hills rolled like so many lawns & nonchalant castles crumbled alongside the freeway. We were already in awe, even as I struggled to not list the tiny blue car into the hedges… next installment all about Ballyvolane & Ballymaloe! But before that will be a little bit of Honeysuckle Syrup & a bit about all this MasterChef business!
“being forever in the company of books” describes my (southern) partner to a t. several of these haunts were places he visited on his trip to dublin. thank you for sharing. so beautiful.
So wonderful. I love your work.
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You have captured dublin so beautifully. I hope you’ve enjoyed our little country 🙂
absolutely stunning photos!
Rebecca @ tr[i]b[e]cca
Beautiful photographs and words, now I want to go to Ireland even more!
Stop it right now with these photos. TOO GOOD. I feel like I’m flipping through Kinfolk or staring at a picture book.
Wow, you’ve captured the atmosphere magnificently. Totally wishing I was there now haha
These pictures and this post are stunning! So glad that you were able to visit there and share a piece of your trip with us.
I’m so happy to have stumbled upon your blog! Especially when you’re visiting Ireland! I worked at Trinity College in Dublin two summer’s ago and instantly fell in love with the city and entire country. Your photos are beautiful! If your still in Ireland and happen to be in Cork you must visit the English Market- it’s incredible.
I’ve read this post several times now…the story and the photos together are like a wonderfully romantic/adventurous movie that I didn’t want to end. You make Ireland sound so magical, I can’t help but want to go there next.
I am beyond thrilled that I found your blog…I love every post. 🙂
Sarah
This makes me so happy. I lived in Dublin in 1998 for 6 months, and adore it still. It’s in my blood and in my soul. Back then, people didn’t see the Dublin I did–the one of tremendous potential, of hidden gems and bakeries with buns and brioche full of rich irish butter. But it thrills me to see people traveling there, indulging, writing about and in your case, beautifully capturing the magic of that city. Every photo is just stunning.
So beautiful! I’m trying terribly hard not to be jealous of all your exciting adventures right now. But I am also terribly happy for you. 🙂 Can’t wait to see your next installment. xo
You have convinced me to pack my bags this very second for a long stay in Dublin. Perhaps if I leave tonight, I’ll make it by breakfast. Sigh, how I wish!
Wow, this makes me want to jump on a plane to Ireland asap!! Such amazing photos. Just to let you know that I featured your blog on my blog today!
I ♥ the way you shoot !
Lovely post Beth. Ireland is tremendous in many winding ways…..food being most providential. Thanks for the mention as well, happy to oblige. x
I forgot to include a linky in that mention!! But I fixed it : ) Thanks again for all your help, and I fully expect to see you here in TN!
I’m exactly the same, every time I go on holiday I want to live in the place I visit. You’ve captured Ireland so beautiful – incredibly gorgeous photos!
Really beautiful pictures!
It’s a perfect blog you have!
Pinning to my travel board right now!!
Jana
Sort of can’t even get over the beauty in these images. Your photos truly tell a story, can’t wait to see the rest of your trip.
And now I would also like to move to Ireland. !
I’m so happy this is the first part. I can’t wait to read the rest.
The way you describe your man sounds like the embodiment of mine. Forever in the company of books.
x dotti dee
Your post makes me want, for the first time ever, to visit Ireland.
Stunning…I was just there last autumn and you’re making me miss it soooo bad. Making a cup of tea right now!!
So beautiful, I want to go there immediately!!
Amazing photos. So so lovely.
Magical.
Gorgeous photos. Stunning.
Stunning photos!
So lovely to see Ireland through your eyes! It reminds me of the wealth of treasures that we have here at our finger tips…I will definitely have to appreciate it more! Looking forward to seeing part two!
I sigh (happily) over your blog! If you’re interested there’s a poetry competition sponsored by Ballymaloe – find out details through the Moth Magazine’s website themothmagazine.com
It might be a nice reminder of your trip to Ireland for your poetic other half?
Gorgeous photos as always. And I’m right there with you – I fall in love with the intricacies of every single place I visit and undoubtedly want to move there within the first few moments of exploring.
Lovely images!!! My husband and I have Ireland on our wish list. Can’t wait to visit someday. And speaking of the phrase “the devil’s beating his wife”, you might like these maps! 🙂 http://www.businessinsider.com/22-maps-that-show-the-deepest-linguistic-conflicts-in-america-2013-6?op=1
Thanks for the virtual tour. I smiled as I saw the photo of all the books, never far away. So he would really burn his books for you? What a sweetheart. I was loving the food until you got to the fritters, not sure I am that brave. You are very adventurous – left, left, left. 🙂
totally gorgeous
How lovely…
Valentina
Valentina Duracinsky Blog
So lovely, peaceful.. Such beauty and beautiful words. Can’t wait for your next installment.
If Dublin was a city I wanted to visit, now that craving has gone through the roof with your pics!
Get thee to 3FE, Vice, Pekhoe and Clement, Roasted Brown for some great coffee in Dublin….
beautiful! You have a way with words, I am salivating!
Beautiful photographs, and a lovely place to visit.
Beautifull photos, it´d be posible to share some of them??? Thanks, kissses from Spain 🙂
GADD your photos are wonderful! <3
Breakfast and books in the countryside. Sounds enchanting!
ravie de decouvrir ton univers….grace a ma page pinterest!
petit post sur mon blog..
bises a tres vite
k@te
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I loved to read books with a cup of coffee & your photos are very nice.
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I’ve just stumbled upon your two Ireland posts, and I am loving them to bits. I was born in Ireland, but grew up in Canada. I’ve always felt home when there though. The intimate detail you describe makes me feel right at home; the scenery, the food, the sayings. All my family being there has given me a sense of belonging, but there is just something about Ireland that makes me feel at home- it’s where I’ve come from. I’ve visited many times since 5 years of age, and I am going this April for a month to explore places I’ve never been. I can hardly wait. I’ve jotted down a couple notes from your blog, but do you have any other cafes, restaurants or places you recommend to go?
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greetings from tasmania………google figbat oswald and see if you can work it out.